【四川地情短视频】平武01┃白马藏人擀毡帽
【四川地情短视频】平武01┃白马藏人擀毡帽
(平武县融媒体中心、绵阳市平武县地方志办公室、平武县非遗中心 供稿)
来源:四川省地方志工作办公室 四川省广播电视局
白马藏人擀毡帽
Baima Tibetans' Rolling felt hat
在白马人的记忆里
In the memories of the Baima Tibetans
六月的雨像断了线的珠子
the rain in June is like a broken string of beads
一滴一串的掉落
dropping one after another
汇成无数的水洼
to create countless puddles.
而天母湖畔的万物
And at the shore of Tianmu Lake
也从此刻开始唤醒关于水的记忆
all things awaken their memories of water from this moment.
白马藏人的盘形白毡
The disk-shaped white felt hat of the Baima Tibetan people
上插白鸡毛
adorned with white rooster feathers,
在中华民族的服饰中极具特色
is highly distinctive in the attire of the Chinese nation
并承载着民族的历史
and carries the history of the ethnic group
极具艺术与文化价值
showcasing its artistic and cultural value.
白马藏人毡帽的擀制工艺
The rolling process of the Baima Tibetan felt hat
是民族文化传承中重要的内容
is an important component in the inheritance of their cultural traditions.
做一个毡帽
It generally
一般要两天左右的时间
takes about two days to make a felt hat,
从剪羊毛、打羊毛到擀制
from shearing and hammering the wool to rolling it out,
然后打磨
then polishing
修边
Trimming
扎线
Sewing,
绕线
and wrapping the thread
一共要计划两天的时间
for a total of two days
白色盘形的毡帽是山羊毛擀制的
The white disk-shaped felt hat is made from rolled goat wool
所以羊毛是制作毡帽的基础
so wool is the foundation of felt hat making
擀毡帽的第三代传承人
The third-generation inheritor of felt hat rolling
——杨海军
Yang Haijun
几乎每一周都要进入羊圈收集羊毛
collects wool from the sheepfold almost every week.
盘形毡帽是白马藏人的
The disk-shaped felt hat is
重要饰物之一
one of the important ornaments of the Tibetan people
通过击打将羊毛变的蓬松
Through hammering, the wool becomes fluffy
同时抖落羊毛上的杂质
while dust and impurities are shaken off
羊毛必须拿回来打
The wool must be brought back to hammer,
羊毛有点地方粗有的地方细
and it is of uneven thickness.
打羊毛是为了将羊毛的粗细均衡
The wool must be hammered to even out the wool's thickness,
这样在后期擀制的时候会更加轻松
as doing so will make it easier to shape during later stages
不打的话擀制起来非常吃力
Without hammering, the wool will be difficult to shape
粗细也不均匀
and its thickness is uneven.
铺羊毛是一个非常关键的环节
Laying the wool is a critical step
羊毛的分布的均匀程度
and the even distribution of the wool
将直接影响毡帽的塑形
will directly affect the shape of the felt hat.
最重要的步骤主要是铺羊毛一定要铺均匀
The most important step is to lay the wool evenly
否则会导致厚薄不一
otherwise, the thickness will be uneven
后续的制作会有很多的麻烦
which might result in problems in the subsequent stages of product.
高温水能够使羊毛迅速收缩
High-temperature water can quickly make the wool shrink
但水温的准确把握需要长时间的积淀
but an accurate water temperature needs to be known, which requires a long time of experience.
不断的烧开水不仅能使羊毛收缩得更加均匀
Constantly boiling water can make the wool shrink more evenly
同时随着水的流动也能使羊毛再次清洁
and clean the wool again as the water flows
夹着羊毛的竹筒必须要迅速地来回滚搓
The bamboo tube holding the wool must be quickly rolled back and forth
迅速滚搓竹筒可以使收缩后的羊毛变得更加紧密
which can make the shrunken wool more compact
为了使羊毛达到最佳的收缩状态
In order to achieve the best shrinkage of the wool
需要不断地揉搓和淋开水
constant rubbing and water pouring are needed
大概每十多分钟就要淋水一次
with water pouring every ten minutes
这个看似简单的过程实则对用力有着很大的需求
This seemingly simple process requires considerable force
开始时两头用力小
at the beginning, force is used slightly;
过程中中间用力大
during the process, greater force is applied to the center;
最后整体用力大
and finally, greater force is applied to the whole.
任何一个环节的发力错误
Any errors in the application of force during any part of the process
都会影响羊毛的收缩与最终的定型
can affect the shrinkage of the wool and its final shape.
seems to embody the patience of the Baima people
制作一顶白毡帽一般需要用到8种工具
Making a felt hat requires around eight different tools
羊毛已经成型
After the wool has been shaped
那么接下来的工作就是用模具来定型
the next step is to use a mold to form the hat
首先要将羊毛在模具上用力按成一个帽子的形状
Firstly, the wool is firmly pressed onto the mold to create its shape
再用特定的器具进行敲击
and then specific tools are used to hammer the wool
这个是做帽子第一步的工具
This is the first step in hat-making
用模具给帽子定型
where the mold shapes the hat
然后通过石块击打再次定型。
and then a stone is used to further shape it
通过画线定位裁线定圈的方法
By marking and cutting the felt at specific points
将毡帽定型,并再次加固
the hat is formed and fortified again.
到了这一步
At this point
毡帽的模样就已经基本初步呈现
the felt hat's shape is almost complete
再用两种粗细不同的石块对帽子的外部进行打磨
then two types of stones, one coarse and one fine,
直至光滑
are used to polish the exterior of the hat until it is smooth.
用剪刀修去多余的部分
Scissors are used to trim away any excess wool,
再用手捏出褶皱
and then the hat is pinched by hand to create folds.
打磨的过程中会加入一些滑石粉,
During the polishing process, some talcum powder is added
会使打磨完成的毡帽看起来更加洁白。
to make the completed felt hat look purer and brighter.
为了防止毡帽的边沿出现脱毛的情况,
To prevent the edges of the felt hat from becoming frayed,
需在毡帽的边沿缝上一圈白线加以固定,
a circle of white thread should be sewn around the edges
在上面排缠红蓝两色细线,
and red and blue threads should be wrapped around it,
线与帽之间插的是白色公鸡的尾羽
with white rooster tail feathers inserted between the thread and the hat.
白毡帽是白马藏人最重要的饰品,
The white felt hat is the most important accessory for the Baima Tibetans.
在岁月的跌宕中,
Through the ups and downs of time,
白马人用自己的方式,
they have preserved their heritage
带着情感和梦想,
with their emotions, dreams,
带着记忆和温度,
memories, and warmth in their own way.
默默守候祖辈留下的传承,
They silently guard the legacy left by their ancestors,
一守候,便是一生。
and this vigilance lasts a lifetime.
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