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【四川地情短视频】平武03┃白马藏人织花腰带

来源:平武县融媒体中心、绵阳市平武县地方志办公室、平武县非遗中心 发布时间:2024-04-11 09:46:29 浏览次数: 【字体:

【四川地情短视频】平武03┃白马藏人织花腰带 

(平武县融媒体中心、绵阳市平武县地方志办公室、平武县非遗中心 供稿) 

 来源:四川省地方志工作办公室  四川省广播电视局


白马藏人织花腰带   

Baima Tibetans' Checked belt   

 

在天母湖畔

On the shore of Tianmu Lake,

夺补河之源

at the source of the Duobu river,

有一座上百年历史的白马古寨

there is a centuries-old Baima ancient fortress,

扒昔加

Paxiji.

伴着鸡鸣与炊烟

With the rooster crowing and cooking smoke,

花腰带第三代传承人优花

the third-generation inheritor of the checked belt, Youhua,

也在一碗蔬菜粥和一块玉米饼之中

with a bowl of vegetable porridge and a piece of corn cake,

开启了忙碌的一天

starts her busy day.

花腰带是白马人在长期的生产劳动中创造的

The checked belt was created by the Baima people during their long-term productive labor.

是世代以口传心授的方法传承下来的

It is passed down from generation to generation by oral instruction.

民间文化艺术

It is a folk culture and art.

体现了白马人的聪明才智和艺术创造力

It reflects the ingenuity and artistic creativity of the Baima people.

纺织花腰带是他们的生活日常之一

Weaving checked belts is one of their daily activities.

这个花腰带是我们成立民族(白马族)之初就有

This checked belt was weaved at the beginning of our nation (Baima Tibetan nationality).

是我们祖祖辈辈传下来的

It has been passed down from generation to generation by our ancestors.

原来我们白马族人的衣服没有扣子

The clothes of the Baima people have no buttons.

(花腰带)就是用来缠住衣服,和扣子的作用是一样的

They are used to entangle clothes, like buttons.

在制作花腰带前

Before making the checked belt

要将采集好的羊毛捻成线

You need to twist the collected wool into a thread.

捻线时

When twisting the thread,

先拿一团羊毛互相揉搓

first take a ball of wool and rub it together,

左手拿着羊毛

then, hold the wool in your left hand,

右手捻动线锤

twist the spindle with your right hand,

顺时针转动

and turn the spindle clockwise.

一点一点地放下羊毛

Put down the wool bit by bit

那羊毛会随着转动的线锤

With the rotating spindle,

逐渐地收紧成细线

the wool will gradually tighten into a thin thread.

在古代

In ancient times,

白马族用的染料所有的颜色

all the colors of the dyes used by the Baima people

都来自大自然之中

came from nature.

把羊毛线放进已配好的染料中

Put the wool thread into the prepared dye

大约30分钟左右捞起一次

and pick it up once every 30 minutes.

待水滴干后又放入缸里

Put it into a vat after the water drips dry.

如此反复数次

Repeat this several times

再选择一个晴朗的天气将羊毛线捞出

and choose a sunny day to fish out the woolen thread.

晒干收回

Dry it in the sun before taking it back.

白马藏人妇女捻线用一支线锤

The Baima Tibetan woman twists the thread,

在手里提着

with a spindle carrying in her hand

一束麻缠在腰上

and a bunch of hemp wrapped around the waist.

两指一捻

Two fingers twist

线锤转了

and the spindle turns,

像个陀螺

like a top.

上面就捻出线来

then the thread is twisted out

线捻长了

The thread becomes longer and longer,

缠在线锤上

then wrap it around the spindle.

再捻

Twist again.

再缠

Wrap again.

不同的妇女会织出不同的图案

Different women can weave different patterns.

就是同一个妇女也会织出多种组合的图形

The same woman can also weave multiple combinations of patterns,

但色调都非常鲜艳

but the color is very bright.

没有人能想到

No one would have thought that

纺织技艺如此复杂的花腰带

such a complicated weaving technique of the checked belt

所用工具

is completed with simple tools

竟源自于这些常见的树木

coming from these common trees.

线捻够了

When the thread is twisted enough,

就在地上打几个木桩

a few wooden stakes are placed on the ground.

牵成一排经线

Draw the warp thread in a row

然后席地而坐

then sit on the ground,

不用织机

Without looms,

只有几个木桩

only a few wooden stakes

几块梭板就足够了

and a few shuttle boards are enough.

花腰带上的装饰图文

The decorative graphics on the checked belt

由红 绿 黄 蓝 白 黑

are composed of various different red, green, yellow, blue, white and black

各种不同的三角、棱形、方块的小方形

triangles, prisms, and small squares,

构成和谐的图案

forming a harmonious pattern.

而编织花腰带是一个漫长的过程

Weaving the checked belt is a long process.

要从一丝一缕的羊毛线

Change from a single strand of wool thread

变为约七八寸宽

to about seven or eight inches wide

七八尺长花腰带

and seven or eight feet long belt.

一根花腰带从捻线到纺织完成

To weave a checked belt from twisting to completion

一般需要20天左右的时间

takes about 20 days.

花腰带的工艺要点

The key points of checked belt technology

在纺织和选配线色上一定要规律

must be regular in weaving and matching thread colors.

每一个保持下来的传统图案

Every preserved traditional pattern

都有深远寓意

has a profound meaning.

不同的图案象征各异

Different patterns have different meanings.

不同图案纺织方法也不一样

Different patterns also have different weaving methods.

这一份古老而又复杂的技艺

This ancient and complex skill

并未随着岁月的流逝而消失

has not disappeared with the passing of time.

或许正是因为每一位白马人对传承的坚守

Perhaps it is precisely because every Baima person insists on inheritance.

这个花腰带是我们民族(白马族),全部(女性)都有的

All (Baima women) have this kind of checked belt.

这个是我们白马族的特色

This is the characteristic of us Baima people.

我这个花腰带是我外婆教会我的,我们也将继续传承下去

My grandmother taught me how to weave it and we will continue to pass it on,

儿子女儿们,孙子孙女们也将延续下去

as will our sons, daughters and grandchildren.

花腰带围在腰间

It is wrapped around the waist,

束细了腰肢

slimming the waist.

铜钱串闪亮了

Strings of copper coins shine.

百褶裙飘动起来

The pleated skirt flutters.

他们把智慧、愿望

They pour their wisdom, wishes

以及对生活的热爱

and love for life

倾注在纺织工艺中展现在服饰上

into the textile craft and on their clothes.

给人天真朴素、回归自然的感觉

It gives people the feeling of innocence, simplicity and returning to nature.

这就是白马藏族

This is the Baima Tibetan nationality.

这就是花腰带

This is the checked belt.

穿戴在身上的历史

This is the history worn on the body.

来源: 平武县融媒体中心、绵阳市平武县地方志办公室、平武县非遗中心
终审:何谐
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